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How to Mordant Cellulose (Plant) Fibers

Mordanting is a critical step when using natural dye materials. Natural dyes require a mordant agent to help them bond to the fiber being dyed. The mordant acts as a chemical connection between the fiber and the dye.

A variety of mordant recipes exist out there, but don’t let this scare you away! Here I explain my personal practice which I have tried to make very simple, time-wise and supplies-wise, while maintaining effectiveness.

For natural dye I prefer to use either plant derived fibers (aka cellulose fibers) or animal derived fibers ( aka protein fibers). Each will require a slightly different process for mordanting. Below I share with you how to mordant cellulose fibers. Let’s begin!

Video, Supplies, and Steps below…

In this video, I show how to mordant cellulose fibers using 100% cotton and muslin fabric:

SUPPLIES

* Always use separate supplies from your kitchen tools for your dyeing *

  • Kitchen Scale

  • Stirring Spoons

  • 5 gallon bucket (2)

  • Measuring Cup

  • Extra cups

Scour supplies:

  • Diastatic Malt Powder

  • Soda Ash

For Mordant:

  • Aluminum Acetate (best for cellulose fibers)

  • Calcium Carbonate

STEPS

To Scour (Cleaning) :

  • NOTE: If you do not have your own washer, you can do these steps in a pot on your cooking stove.

1) Wash a medium size laundry load of your fibers with 1/4 cup of Diastatic Malt Powder

2) Remove the fibers from the washer and set them aside for at least 12 hrs.

  • This allows for the enzymes in the Diastatic Malt Powder to eat away at the pectins and waxes on the cellulose

3) Wash the fibers with 1 cup of Soda Ash and HOT water.

To Mordant:

1) Weigh your fibers. Then Weigh out your Alum.

  • Alum weight = 10% of Fiber weight

2) Fill 1 bucket with hot tap water

3) Add Alum into the bucket and stir to dissolve

4) Wet your fibers and add them into the bucket

  • Add just enough so that they can move around loosely in the bucket

5) Leave them in the Alum bath for about 30 min.

6) Remove and rinse thoroughly

7) Next, fill the other bucket with hot water.

8) Weigh your calc. carb and add it in the bucket. Stir to dissolve.

  • Calc. Carb. weight = 5% of Fiber weight

  • or 1 tbsp. for 100 grams of fiber

9) Leave fibers in there for 5-10 min

10) Remove and Rinse!

  • Use right away to dye, or store away indefinitely

Reuse your baths ( about 50% of alum will still be in your bucket) Add more as needed.

  • OR Pour off into your garden or down your drain (the trace amounts of alum are relatively non toxic)

Carly Lake