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How to Mordant Protein (Animal) Fibers

Natural dyes require a mordant agent to help them bond to the fiber being dyed. I especially like the way Rebecca Burgess explains how a mordant aids the dyeing process:

“ The mordant is a translator that speaks both the language of the fiber and the language of the dye. It functions as a chemical bridge, binding to both the dye and the fabric more effectively than either can bind to the other. “ ( excerpt from Harvesting Color )

For natural dye I prefer to use either plant derived fibers (aka cellulose fibers) or animal derived fibers ( aka protein fibers). Each will require a slightly different process for mordanting. Below I share with you the steps for mordanting any type of animal fiber.

Video, Supplies, and Steps below…

wool yarn dyed with : Toyon, Avocado pits and skins, California Grape Leaves, Cabbage x 2, Coyote Brush, Red Ironbark Eucalyptus, and Cochineal

wool yarn dyed with : Toyon, Avocado pits and skins, California Grape Leaves, Cabbage x 2, Coyote Brush, Red Ironbark Eucalyptus, and Cochineal

This video demonstrates the process of mordanting animal fibers with WOOL and SILK:

SUPPLIES:
* Use separate supplies for your dyeing, Do not reuse supplies for cooking in your kitchen*

  • Animal (Protein) Fibers (Ex: wool, silk, alpaca, angora, cashmere, mohair)

  • Stainless Steel or Enamel Pots

    • I like to find these at thrift stores and look for ones that are about 12 qt. size, but size will depend on what you intend to dye

  • Stirring Sticks or Spoons

  • Kitchen Scale

  • Alum - Aluminum Potassium Sulfate (best for protein fibers)

  • PH neutral soap (most dish soaps will be fine)

  • Thermometer

  • Outdoor Stove + Fuel

    • I recommend doing your dyeing process outside if you have the space, as some plants can give of toxic fumes when broken down. (Ex: Toyon releases Cyanide) .

  • Extra bowls come in handy!

STEPS

PREWASHING ( to remove industrial softener agents and additives):

1) Put your fibers in a bowl or pot

2) Fill the bowl with hot water ( 140-160 F) and add about 1 tbsp. of PH neutral soap

3) Leave in the water for 30 min - 60 min

4) Rinse soap off the fibers

MORDANTING

1) Weigh your fibers when they are dry (I prefer using grams)

2) Weigh your Alum. The Alum weight needs to be 10% of your fiber weight

3) On your stove, Fill your pot with hot water and bring to 180 degrees F

4) Add Alum to the pot and stir to dissolve.

5) Maintain water temperature at 180 degrees F.
(You do not want to bring sensitive animal fibers like wool to water’s boiling point of 210 degrees F)

6) Wet your fibers with (ideally) warm water all over and add them to pot

7) Leave fibers in the pot for 60 min (stirring occasionally)

8) Remove fibers and rinse them thoroughly.

  • Use a bowl underneath to catch the extra alum. You can reuse it in your Alum bath to mordant other fibers

  • Rinsing is important because any un-bonded Alum can bond to dye in your dye pot, leaving less dye for your fiber.

12) You can dye these mordanted fibers immediately or store them away in a clean location for future dyeing.

Alum Bath Disposal:

  • Reuse your Alum bath, about 50% of Alum will still be in your pot. Add more as needed.

  • OR Dilute and pour off down your drain (the trace amounts of alum are relatively non toxic)

Carly Lake